The Outer Hebrides is a remote chain of islands off Scotland’s west coast that offers an escape into breathtaking and untouched landscapes. With dramatic coastlines, white sandy beaches, and rolling hills, these islands are rich in history and wildlife. And you don’t need a car to get to and around them! In this blog post, I will share my solo trip to Barra, Eriskay, and South Uist by public transport.
I’m a solo traveller who doesn’t drive and has been exploring Scotland and the rest of the world by public transport for about six years now. I love sharing my adventures to hopefully help and encourage more people to try this way of travel.
There are loads of benefits to travelling the Scottish islands without a car:
Public transport is usually cheaper than renting a car.
Travelling by public transport allows you to interact with locals, whether you're chatting with people on a bus or getting tips from ferry workers.
Driving through Scotland’s winding rural roads can be challenging for those unfamiliar with the area, especially in the busy months. Public transport lets you sit back, relax, and enjoy the views, with no need to worry about navigation, parking, or road conditions.
It reduces your carbon footprint compared to driving a car. Scotland's trains, buses, and ferries allow you to explore its landscapes in a more environmentally conscious way, aligning with eco-tourism goals.
You can enjoy whisky tastings at distilleries without needing a designated driver.
This is a paid partnership with CalMac Ferries, however, all opinions stated in this blog post are my own.
Oban, the “Gateway to the Isles”
As the "Gateway to the Isles," Oban is a bustling coastal town on Scotland's west coast that plays a vital role in connecting travellers to the islands. Oban’s ferry terminal is a hub for the CalMac ferries, which take you to the Outer Hebrides. From here, you can sail to the Isle of Barra, the starting point for exploring Barra, Eriskay, and South Uist. The ferry crossing is an experience in itself, offering incredible views of the Scottish coastline and islands along the way.
Known for its vibrant harbour and stunning views, Oban is easily accessible by public transport, with regular trains from Glasgow offering scenic journeys through the Highlands. If you're travelling by bus, the journey is equally picturesque and you can book a bus with Citylink. The train and bus stations are both located just a two-minute walk from the ferry terminal.
Before boarding your ferry, Oban offers plenty to explore:
Oban Distillery: One of Scotland’s oldest whisky distilleries—a must-visit for whisky lovers.
McCaig's Tower: A Romanesque structure on a hill above the town, offering panoramic views over the harbour and surrounding islands.
Pulpit Hill: Just a short walk from Oban’s town centre, it offers some of the most stunning panoramic views over the town and across to the surrounding islands. From the summit, you can see Oban, the Isle of Kerrera, Mull, and Lismore, making it a perfect spot for photography or simply soaking in the breathtaking scenery, especially at sunset.
Food: Oban is famed for its fresh seafood, with restaurants and stalls serving locally caught fish, shellfish, and more. There are also plenty of vegan-friendly options, such as The Oban Fish & Chip Shop, which serves vegan haggis.
For accommodation, you can stay at Don Muir Guest House, which is only a 15-minute walk to the ferry terminal.
Isle of Barra
The Isle of Barra is a small island in the Outer Hebrides, packed with charm and stunning views. You can take the ferry from Oban to Castlebay, which takes around five hours.
The ferry provides spacious seating, including both indoor lounges and outdoor decks, so you can relax and enjoy the scenic views of the islands and the sea. They also have dedicated areas for passengers travelling with dogs or other small animals. There’s a restaurant onboard offering hot and cold dishes, including vegetarian and vegan-friendly options, and a café with drinks and light snacks.
Getting Around
The local bus is operated by Aurora Trans Co., and you can find the timetable online, at your accommodation, or at the visitor centre, Buth Bharraigh. The bus ticket prices are affordable and vary depending on distance; for example, when I took a 20-minute bus from Castlebay to Ardmhor, which is on the other side of the island, it cost me £2. You can also ask the driver to drop you off at spots that are not official bus stops, as long as you inform him when you get on.
Accommodation
The ferry terminal is only a few minutes' walk from a variety of accommodations, including the cosy Tigh Na Mara B&B and Dunard Lodge & Hostel, both of which offer stunning views of Castlebay.
Things to Do
Buth Bharraigh is the community shop and visitor information centre located in Castlebay, across from the ferry terminal. The shop sells locally produced food, a refill station with grains and herbs, including a build-your-own-muesli station, books, and handmade crafts, which are great for gifts and souvenirs.
Perched on a small rocky island in Castlebay, Kisimul Castle is Barra’s iconic mediaeval stronghold. It’s usually accessible by a short boat ride, but when I visited, it was closed to allow for conservation works. However, you can still admire it from Castlebay, and it adds to the stunning views during sunset.
Barra Airport is the only airport in the world where scheduled flights use a tidal beach as the runway. There’s also a little café to enjoy some refreshments with a view. It’s really fun to watch the plane land, and there’s a bus that waits for the passengers; so once you watch it, you can get on the bus and continue to another destination.
Traigh Eais is a stunning beach with sand dunes where you can often see cute cows wandering around. It’s right across from the airport, only a few minutes' walk.
Visit the ruins of Cille Bharra, a mediaeval church and graveyard that’s associated with the island’s namesake, St. Barr. It’s a peaceful place with lovely views.
Heaval is Barra’s highest peak at 383 metres. The hike is moderate but rewarding, offering panoramic views of the island and, on clear days, the surrounding Hebrides.
Barra offers excellent cycling and walking opportunities. The island’s circular road takes you through coastal landscapes, villages, and hills. You can also enjoy shorter walking routes that offer great views and encounters with wildlife. Check out Walkhighlands for more information on the different route options.
Food
There are quite a few restaurants and cafés around the island, and I was pleasantly surprised by the delicious vegan-friendly options they had. While I was there, I visited the Castlebay Hotel, Craigard Hotel, and Garadh Café.
To get to the next islands, you can take the bus to Ardmhor terminal and then take the ferry from there to the Isle of Eriskay.
Eriskay and South Uist
I am grouping both islands together here as they are connected by a causeway, and you can visit both by bus during one trip. They are part of the Uist islands, which include Berneray, North Uist, Grimsay, Benbecula, South Uist, and Eriskay. On this trip, I only did Eriskay and South Uist; however, if you have more time, you can visit all of them during a trip, without a car.
The ferry journey from Castlebay to Eriskay is only 40 minutes, and the ticket costs £3.65 one way.
Getting Around
The local bus is operated by DA Travel, and the bus to South Uist waits at Eriskay ferry terminal for when passengers arrive. You can find the bus timetables here.
Another great way to get around the islands is by renting an e-bike from Hebridean E-Bikes. They have flexible hiring options and can deliver the bike to you.
Accommodation
For my first night, I stayed at the Storm Pods in Lochboisdale, which was one of my favourite stays I’ve ever had. My pod was super cosy, and the view from it was breathtaking. I loved how peaceful and secluded it was, but at the same time, it was only a few minutes' walk to the village.
For my second night on South Uist, I stayed at the lovely Borrodale Hotel in Daliburgh, which is seven minutes by bus from Lochboisdale or 15 minutes cycling. The location was great for exploring, and I loved breakfast in the morning.
Things to Do
Eriskay is known for its pivotal role in the Jacobite uprisings, and you can walk along the beach where Bonnie Prince Charlie first set foot on Scottish soil in 1745. This white-sand beach is perfect for a peaceful walk, surrounded by stunning turquoise waters.
Eriskay is also famous for its rare native pony breed, the Eriskay Pony, one of the last surviving Hebridean horse breeds. These ponies roam freely on the island, and spotting them in their natural habitat is a special experience.
Eriskay Beach is another beautiful beach with turquoise waters, and it’s a few minutes' walk from the Am Politician, named after the famous shipwreck, SS Politician, which ran aground off Eriskay’s coast in 1941. The ship was carrying thousands of bottles of whisky, and the incident famously inspired the novel and film Whisky Galore. It’s a great spot to enjoy a meal, some drinks, and soak up the local culture.
The Father Allan Trail is a walking route dedicated to Father Allan MacDonald, a Catholic priest and Gaelic scholar who served on Eriskay in the late 19th century. He was known for his work in preserving Gaelic culture and language, as well as his deep connection with the local community.
Kildonan Museum on South Uist provides insights into the island's history, culture, and heritage, showcasing artifacts, photographs, and exhibitions on local life. There is also a cafe with beautiful views of the surrounding hills
Kildonan Beach is a beautiful stretch of sandy shore where you can see different sea birds such as gulls and waders. It’s a 30-minute walk from Kildonan Museum or 8 minutes by bike.
FOOD
While I was there, I had food at Lochboisdale Hotel, the Borrodale Hotel, Croft & Cuan, Kildonan Museum, and Am Politician, and they all had vegan friendly options.
The Outer Hebrides offer a unique blend of stunning landscapes, rich history, and vibrant local culture. The locals were extremely nice to me and I felt welcomed the whole time I was on the islands and I even got offered lifts by them instead of waiting for the bus sometimes. Whether you're exploring the pristine beaches, hiking the scenic trails, or learning about the islands' heritage, there’s something for everyone. And travelling by public transport allows you to take in the scenery at a relaxed pace and appreciate the connections between the islands. If you're looking for an off-the-beaten-path adventure in Scotland, these islands provide an authentic experience that highlights the beauty and diversity of the Hebrides
You can check out Visit Outer Hebrides and CalMac to plan your trip to the islands
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